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 We are parked on
North Branch for a breather after a
 BBQ up in the
 NISBET FOREST on this ride.

'16 YAMAHA Triple SXT 700 PROJECT SLED

  • WE INSTALL SOME "S" FOR SPORT ON OUR "XT"!! SXT !

  • RECONDITION A  DESCENT RUNNING SLED INTO A GOOD BACK COUNTRY TOUR SLED.

  • ADJUST AND/OR REPLACE THE COMPONENTS THAT HAVE BEEN POORLY ADJUSTED OR JUST ABUSED.

  • END UP WITH A SLED THAT HAS  EXTREMELY RESPONSIVE HANDLING AND CAPABLE.

This 700 triple is equipped with a nice 1.5" track. This sled's reasonably short track and all temperature responsive 115 HP mill make it a great trail breaker thru the tight NISBET FOREST trails.


 A Parked on a small
Un-named remote winter platform in the Nisbet Forest, 
good test ride that is revealing an over rev.
A clutch weight change is required to make the engine shift at 8200,
85-8600 is out of the power band with stock cylinders and pipe
18-01V.


 Down the road with the sled running great I added different skis,
 suspension components and skid plate for cosmetic reasons.
 Who said we don't have anything Yellow? 


 We run her hard for lots of miles after the carburetor reset
 and top end freshen up.
  
 16-09V

#1  THE ENGINE RAN.
#2   ON THE ADVICE OF THE PREVIOUS OWNER I TORE THE TOP END DOWN.
#3   WE PUT HER TO THE TEST and RUN HER W.O.T. for MILES ON END.
#4   REAR SUSPENSION SHOCK and COUPLER BUSHING        SERVICE.   
#5   UPGRADE the TRACK.
#6  OK TIME FOR THE OEM YAMAHA CLUTCH, and WELL, WE FEEL SHE IS "Reverse Worthy" SO IN GOES THE REVERSE GEAR BOX......HOLDING MY BREATH.

 

 #1  THE ENGINE RAN Fall 2015/Winter 2016
When I bought this sled it fired up and ran. The owner said it needed a set of pistons that something went wrong on its last ride a number of years ago. I took some time to analyze it. The engine did sound like it was missing...but it felt good to pull over on the rope.  I got it home and unplugged the TORs system safety plug and fired her up, I then proceeded to cut a couple uballs on the ice with her revving right out and she sounded pretty good! Over the next month or so, there was a few times it started up good, cold...then it was hard to start some plugs looking wet some not. Then it wouldn't start....the plugs were dry, dropping in some gas it would run again? The engine would be backfiring lean and smelt like it was running really rich...all at the same time!!! Could the fuel pump be leaking fuel thru the diaphragm to the #2 cylinder wetting it down then alternately completely draining the fuel system out into the crankcase under #2 cylinder? The lack of fuel was making the engine impossible to start unless fuel was injected manually into one of the cylinders. A long shot...I have no memory of having to change a fuel pump on one of our Yamaha's ever....the fuel pump change was drastic. The sled now starts and runs reliably. The lean pops were gone but it still felt really rich. The sled was equipped with an temperature and elevation sensitive fuel system. After a short run up at one of the vintage oval races I pulled the carbs apart to see what we have.

a) AS PURCHASED


Examining the snaps from KIJIJI carefully it looks like the track had been changed...the things you notice after the fact. LOL!!

b) A PRELIMINARY PLUG CHECK!


It appears the  the previous owner had a hotter BR8 spark plug in the #1 cylinder. It has a tip extended deeper into the combustion chamber...

...where it would run hotter. I am guessing they had fowling problems with #1. What else will we find.

 

c) OVER and OVER, I START THIS SLED OUT IN THE COLD

I start the engine in the cold looking for consistency...there isn't any! I was going into the carbs for sure no matter what, but I change the fuel pump first trying to solve a very unusual lean/rich starting problem that changes the longer the sled sits, going from flooded rich, to starting not bad but backfiring to a sled that will not start at all unless fuel is manually injected thru the air box.

THE VERDICT
On a whim after experiencing the bizarre starting characteristics...it turns out changing the fuel pump was the ticket. It had been bleeding fuel into the center pulse line lower crankcase creating all the fickle fun at start up.
Changing the fuel pump cured this bizarre condition, I assume fuel was running past the "pumping" diagram thru the "pulse" hose into the center engine case section below the #2 piston. That is why one cylinder would be flooded wet and the others dry in a series of different degrees and stages evident over "various" amounts of time. The common thread was pulse line location and accompanying unexplainably a wet cylinder. This must have been driving the previous owner nuts.


 I


I Look the carbs over and check the choke adjustment on all 3 carbs.

d) A QUICK TEST RIDE


16-05

 

I FINALLY DIVE INTO THE CARBS

The main jets right across are richer than I would ever run. Very surprising I find that the fuel mixture idle screws that provide maybe up to 15% of the  total fuel to the engine are adjusted unlike anything I have ever seen. The fuel screws were out richer than any spec mentioned. Also all three carbs had been set with different screw settings on each carb. The floats were OK.

 

The fuel screw for #1 was out like 3.5 turns instead of say 2 turns, #2 was out 2.5 turns rich and #3 cylinder carbs fuel screw was out 2.0 turns right on spec.

Later when I pulled the head this is what I found for piston wash.


Massive piston wash, richest fuel screw setting and richest main jet.


Still a little rich on the fuel screw, and a little rich on the mains for my liking, wash not real distinctive, remember this is the cylinder affected by the fuel draining from the fuel pump into the crankcase.


The leanest cylinder in purchased form, fuel screw on spec (for my main jet preference) and yes wash indicates she is overall plenty rich. My set up will minimize wash a small amount.

 

        #2   ON THE ADVICE OF THE PREVIOUS OWNER I TORE THE TOP END DOWN  Winter 2016
 Time to pull her apart, the Odometer shows 7675KMs and it was disclosed that the Odometer had stopped some time ago. The owner had bought the sled told me he  added the 1.5" track, new clutch and several other performance parts including an atmospheric fuel adjustment system, performance reed valves and reed stuffers.


The engine sounds good but the mileage really is unknown.


So off with her head!!

Aside from the crazy piston wash...a result of real out of spec fuel screw adjustments

THE ENGINE is
VERY NICE
.

 I am looking at the piston wash once the head is off.
Man what kind of wash is that?

The cylinders exhibit virtually no physically detectable wear. NICE!


They honed up like new.


The bottom end cleaned up ready for the top end.

 


The gaskets are all hightacked.

 


New pistons hanging on the rods.


And yes just like the kids on the bus...they go up and down!

ANOTHER TEST RIDE

16-08,

 

           #3  WE PUT HER TO THE TEST and
        RUN HER W.O.T. for MILES ON END             
A On a very warm spring day we go for our last ride of the year. It is time to run this sled hard all day. Like Smokey Yunick would say "Shake her up in a bag" and lets see what we've got!! Some times you end up with a Bag of "- - - t", you don't know until you put her to work.....I know just the way to put her to work alright...Fox N Hounds with the boys across Saskatchewan!

I INSTALL A NEW SET OF PLUGS FOR THE A REAL RUN IN THE NISBET

RUNNING NICE IT IS TIME TO PUT HER TO THE REAL TEST
16-09 V

After our 125Km run I do a plug check.

 

 

 

 

  #4 REAR SUSPENSION SHOCK and COUPLER BUSHING SERVICE Summer 2017

a) CHAINCASE BEARING
SERVICE


The chain case drive bearings get seals pulled and greased as well.


Reinstalling the seal.


Then the snap ring,


Once  A tug on the snap ring tells us it is seated.


The amount of side slop in the chain used to help determine how worn it is. I will examine this more closely in the near future.


The chain case had a 23 tooth sprocket over a 40 Tooth for a 1.739 ratio.


Lower bearing reinstalled.


I built a dam of grease in the speedo angel drive housing to contain some light oil.

b) SHOCK and COUPLER BUSHINGS


The main skid frame shock bushings were dry and worn badly.


The transfer rods were equally dry and worn. A replacement bushing is in the pic for comparison.


The upper track idlers are cannot be changed or serviced with out dropping out the back section of suspension...so this is the time. Both bearings were rough.


I found a couple bearings on the shelf, one had visibly a good amount of grease, I was accustomed to finding grease in "this BLUE BRAND".


There is barely visible amount of grease in this "black bearing".


Yup "BLUE" has a generous amount of grease. It is rare to see this. I packed them both anyways.


The skid is ready to go in.


Where the rubber meets the road, so to speak!

 

#5   UPGRADE the TRACK Summer 2017
Part of the puzzle is upgrading the track for our Nisbet cross country riding. A lot of opinions is out there but we want a maximum traction in loose snow and yet something that can be driven on a groomed trail from time to time....maybe never...but if it happens! . Also the more snow moving and being carried by the track the slower the sled will be. This is just plain physics, we have found that a 121 x 15 x 1.5 is great on our 115HP 700's and that a 121 x 15 x 1.25 is great on our 100HP 600's.

A few years earlier I had bought a 1999 V-MAX 700 that was being parted because aside "the engine", the "track" and 3 of the 4 "shocks", there was not a single other straight or not cross threaded part on her!

a) TRACK AND
DRIVE AXEL CHANGE


The track as purchased was a great 1.5" track but had been subjected to some unreal abuse just prior to the sled changing hands.

The 121 x 1.5 that the sled came with is hard to look at. There were a lot of broken and missing treads.


 I say this because a lot of paddles or treads appeared to have been "just freshly" broken off....in fact running the sled on a test stand at speed the very first time...resulted in 3 or 4 treads flinging off one was 6 to 8" wide, ouch don't stand behind this one


 

b) NECESSARY TRACK CHANGE


 

This is the replacement track, a nice 121 x 15 x 1.5" Polaris/Camoplast
#5411740


Having purchased and salvaged a '99  XT 700 a few years earlier, I pulled this track off the shelf,
-perfect track
-perfect place to use it and
-perfect timing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OUT WITH THE OLD


The main rear skid frame shock is dry and free of corrosion.
The speedometer did not work on this sled. The original front drive shaft had a speedo cable broken off in it. I broke a few tools attempting to extract the debris.


 The track needed changing and the bearings needed to be packed with grease so hell lets just do it all! My spare drive shaft had center drivers only so I pressed the original outside drive sprockets onto the replacement.

FRONT DRIVE INSTALL


I have changed and installed the front drive.


It The LT side lower drive bearing goes back on full of grease.


The axel is in thru the tunnel into the chaincase.


The LT side lower drive bearing needs the allen screw locked to the shaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  #6  OK TIME FOR THE OEM YAMAHA CLUTCH, and WELL, WE FEEL SHE IS "Reverse Worthy" SO IN GOES THE REVERSE GEAR BOX......HOLDING MY BREATH  Fall 2017           
A On a very warm spring day we go for our last ride of the year. It is time to run this sled one more time! Like Smokey Yunick would say "Shake her up in a bag" and lets see what we've got!! Sure don't want to be this guy!

  A) I EXCHANGE THE COMET FOR AN OEM CLUTCH

This was interesting...laying the Yamaha clutch, clutch alignment tool on the SX 700 I found this large offset to the secondary exists with the Comet clutch installation. What happens when I install the OEM Yamaha clutch will be interesting.

 I knew this before I rode the sled in the SPRING of 2016. For that reason I had a used "disposable" belt on the sled. I do not have a "Comet" clutch alignment tool so who's to say if this was right or wrong. There was a hell of a pile of blown belt fragments under the engine....so no way am I putting a brand new belt on a "potential" belt eating monster!

Well I did not photo graph it but after installing the OEM clutch the alignment was still a way off just like the Comet alignment! I can only guess that "who ever" installed the Comet believed that the correct alignment was a pretty serious offset. I have no idea why this would be right. Is this why there was a pile of blown belts in the chassis? Once this was discovered we move the engine back as the photo shows see inset.

 b) OUR BABY GETS THE REVERSE TREATMENT!


Measure the prescribed amount of 80/90 gear oil into a pitch and slam her home. Done it even ends up where it is supposed to be on the stick.

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